Sunday, August 29, 2010
Final smoothing of the form
Smoothing the form was a LOT of work. I could have been at it for months, but at some point had to call it good enough. I was using polyester resin (smoothing putty) for automotive work. After cutting out the two vent holes with a jigsaw the form was ready for applying PVA mold release agent. I laid on six layers using a HVLP air gun. The next step was to brush on a single thin coat of epoxy and let it get to the right consistency of finish to lay on the carbon fiber.



Sunday, July 25, 2010
Nailing down the mold......finally
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
This time it really worked....
You can see by the flowers that spring has finally arrived. Temps are creeping back toward 30deg Celsius. The project is moving back outdoors for the next phase - carbon fiber!
Sunday, April 4, 2010
2nd Plug
By then end of the day I my legs were tired from shuffling sideways like a crab up and down the narrow hallway working on the deck. I was counting my blessings though, as a cold wind was howling outside and there is no way I could have worked on it this weekend without having set up in our rental house.
This morning I worked on the hard seams - by that I mean the acute transitions between surfaces that are awkward to lay up using a single piece of cloth. I had the idea to use cloth and epoxy to make these transitions (duh...what a simple idea!), which I can make as smooth as possible before I cast the mold. I will use release agent on these sections to ensure that they don't stick permanently to the mold when I do finally cast it. Here are a few pics before I get ready for the big family dinner tonight. BTW - besides Easter, it is Rick's and my 30th anniversary of movin' in together! Cheers, Honey!
Publish Post
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Two strokes forward, one stroke back
Timing is everything. Yesterday I took the seat slides and foot-stretcher tracks that I had removed from my old double and set them into the new boat, along with the rigger from My Escape. I wanted to use the visual props to double check all the rigging locations before I proceeded with building the splash board forms. Damn. The seat deck is too far back, and not just a little....six whole inches. That is to say, I built what I had drawn, but the drawing had a design flaw. When she's rigged it would be impossible to get my hips in line with the pins in the catch position, which is more compressed than I'm used to at the catch, but is recommended for high performance.
I sat down with the drawing... again. The position of the pins is critical. Everything relates to that. That nice mold that I built....I took a knife to it.
I pieced the mold back together with duct tape to mock up the correct positions and sat back to analyze whether I'd got it right. If only I had done that exercise when I had the plug formed before I laid the cloth up. Ouch. Lesson learned the hard way.
Today's job: rework the plug and recheck the rigging again. On the bright side, I think I've come up with a way to make the hard corner transitions in the mold surface better than before. Simple idea.... I guess that's the benefit of doing it twice.
I sat down with the drawing... again. The position of the pins is critical. Everything relates to that. That nice mold that I built....I took a knife to it.
I pieced the mold back together with duct tape to mock up the correct positions and sat back to analyze whether I'd got it right. If only I had done that exercise when I had the plug formed before I laid the cloth up. Ouch. Lesson learned the hard way.
Today's job: rework the plug and recheck the rigging again. On the bright side, I think I've come up with a way to make the hard corner transitions in the mold surface better than before. Simple idea.... I guess that's the benefit of doing it twice.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
It worked!!
Monday, March 29, 2010
Forming the Rowing Deck Mold
To form the mold, you need to start with a positive shape, or what's called a plug. I debated building a plug, but then decided that I could use the boat as the basis for it. I used styrofoam board to form the decks and sloped transition surfaces, all held temporarily in place with masking and duct tape. The location of these are critical parts of the boat design.
The mold surface is going to be made of fiberglass, which I have to cast onto the plug. I got stuck for awhile trying to figure out how to ensure that the fiberglass mold would let go of the plug. I discovered thru experiment that fiberglass releases easily from clear vinyl, so I lined the plug with window-vinyl. Because it's see-thru, it is handy material for this work!Then I laid 6oz glass over top and applied epoxy resin.
Today I checked the result...
...so far, so good!
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